Info

Tuning LOG

May 3, 1999 - Installed Air Filter, 1GBOV, UIC
Well, i went for it. I installed the Akimoto Filter, 1G BOV and UIC pipe. Took me about 2 hours. Then., the test drive.

Flooring it here and there, I noticed i would get 12~14.5PSI!!!! Wow.. And, the WOOSSH sound was louder, and the intake made the revving sound 'throatier'... ALSO, when i stepped on it, the PSI would rise to 14 quicker than before! Maybe that can be attributed to the free-er flow intake??

As for the other gauge readings... they were about the same. O2 hit .98v and my EGT hit 1400deg...

When i let my car sit at idle, i also noticed that my O2 meter went from .15v to .71v steadily when the FAN turned on, but stays at .15~.20 at idle... while my EGT gauge went from 1200deg to 1000deg. Then it just sat there like that.. Ususally idles around 800+

Also, Peak BOOST (14-14.5) was noticed on the following:
1stgear -> 5000rpm O2 sensor around .92~.94 (spikes to .98)
2ndgear ->4800rpm EGT around 1500-1550deg F.
3rdgear ->4300rpm
4thgear ->5000rpm
5thgear ->5000rpm

May 4, 1999 - BCS Mod, Tuning...
Today, i did the BCS mod... I did some testng.. didnt notice any more "Power". BUT, at 4000rpm in 4th gear, i floored it, and got a spike of 18 PSI!!! wow.. but it went back down quick. I didnt feel anything special from that. Also, my peak PSI levels:

1st - 5000rpm - 15psi
2nd-4800rpm - 15psi
3rd -4600rpm - 15psi
the rest dont really matter, but now, I get 15 psi "all the time", and it STAYS for a bit (until 5000 rpm, of course) throught 4th and 5th gear. For my gauge readings, in 5th gear doing 120mph, my EGT hit 1620, and my O2 stayed at .93~.93... this makes sense, because all the extra air coming in is too much for the fuel available, so O2 voltages drop, cause higher egt temps...

May 5,1999 - BOV Dumptube Mod
Alright.. next. I did the BOV Dump tube mod.. now, at first, i didnt notice anything different. But, while i was shifting, both high speed and around town, i noticed no more "clunks".. the shifting seemed very smooth now. Well, it turns out that the BOV mod actually kept my rpm up a little longer between shifts.. Like this, as i would be switching the gear, the turbo would still spin a bit more, so as the next gear is about to rip, the rpms are right about where they should be to step on the gas.. nice..

Also noticed my Vacuum at idle likes 23hgs.. and on Deceleration, it has hit 29hgs.. yikes..

May 6, 1999 - Installed MBC
Now, i did the MBC install. I set the thing as tight as i could. And at WOT, i would get max 10PSI. Great. Now, I started unscrewing the knob. Finally, i was getting 16PSI! until 5000rpm. BUT, in 4th gear, starting at 2500rpm and WOT, it would spike up to 20PSI for about a second then back down to 16psi untill 5000rpm, where it would go down slowly. No boost creep detected. So far, after driving a while, i havent noticed anything special. The car seems to be making all this boost (16psi) and i seem to be feeling less and less power. Maybe its me, or maybe the car is getting hot... It might be time for a FMIC.

No fuel cut, hesitation or detonation so far.. wish me luck.

May 7,1999 - Fuel Pump Rewire
Well, today i did the Fuel Pump Rewire mod, where you install a 10 awg wire in place of the stock wire... this lowers resistance and gives the fuel pump full battery voltage. Ran it at 135mph at night.. WOT in 5th gear.. hey, my egts stayed at 1590!! no more 1600.. i guess it worked .. more fuel most have been entering the cylender. Also, o2s read .92 and my PSI was at 16..

May 8, 1999 - Tuning...
Ok... noticed some things.. with the car cold, i'm only able to reach 14/15 psi max.. when it gets warm, i actually hit 16psi (and the low rpm spikes also come back). Strange. Also, i ordered a 2.5" Catback system from Buschar Racing. Maybe its me, but the car doesnt seem to push that much anymore. I might be getting used to it. Also, i think my autometer boost gauge is off wack. I still get 22/23 hgs at idle. they should be at 18. AND the car idles at 850rpm even.

May 9, 1999 - Tuning...
I moved my MBC away from the mounting position on the radiator to the overflow hose with a wire-tie. I've noticed the MBC stays MUCH cooler, and am not seeing that "variation" of PSI as my car gets from cold to warm. So there is one problem solved.

BUT, on another note, racing a few guys tonight, I noticed my car didnt do that much better. I only lost a launch to a hooked up 3000gt VR4 (but i think thats ok. 6cyl vers 4) but he kept on loosing and loosing me. To other cars, i would easily gain a car length upto 3rd gear, where they would start catching up. That should mean they're making more HP than me, no? I seemed to loose power past 3rd gear (which was when everyone pretty much caught up to me or passed me). Even with 16psi, my car still seemed slower. I'm having doubts now as to what all these mods seem to do. hmmm

May 10, 1999 - INstalled 2.5" Catback
Today i installed my new 2.5" Buschar Racing Cat Back exhaust, with 4" tip, and a Dynomax muffler. Well, took me a bit, but, as for results? Got a nice low tone, same as stock tone, but just a tad LOUDER.. not too loud.. just right. Power? I noticed that Turbo PSI didnt just FALL at 5000rpm.. it hung around 14~15psi untill 6000rpm!! and Downshifting to pass actually was more violent. Hmm. Did i say this car now PURRS?

What else, oh, WOT in first gear used to be: "2500rpm - ooh.. its starting.. 3500rpm. damn i feel it 5000rpm.. oh.. just a bit more 5100rpm awww. thats it??" NOW, its like this.. "2500rpm - ooh. hmm 3500rpm. nice.. feeling it pull. 5000rpm. alright.. looks good.. 5100rpm.. wait a minute, still pulling? 6000rpm.. ooh.. i still felt some pull.. not bad.." Basicaly, the power seems smoother.. and longer.. not violent and quick. at 3000rpm, i notice a slight DRONE sound.. but its still pretty quiet.

EGTs have hit 1600 5th gear, WOT 120mph tonight.. and O2 at .90~.91 i guess the air flow is better, so now the fuel is starting to have a harder time keeping up. Maybe i should get a better fuel pressure regulator? or a new fuel pump? hmmm

May 14, 1999 - Clutch glazed
PROBLEM. Driving around today, i noticed that WOT in 4th or 5th gear started giving me problems. The RPMs would rev up while the car wouldnt accelerate..?? This happened after 2 minutes of experimental quick shifting. ALSO, when this happened, my clutch pedal went from smooth and soft to quick and hard. AND the clutch was grabbing at the last milimeters of pedal travel for some reason. With 2700 miles, do i need a new clutch?? oh oh. Maybe an ACT soon. not sure

Also I pushed it to 135mph. The car didnt want to really go any faster than that... but it was fun :) I'm also installing some NGKs tomorow. And am thinking of removing a clutch restrictor, but heard that would ruin my stock clutch even quicker. hmm

May 15, 1999 - Changed plugs to NGKs 7es, Clutch Restrictor mod
Changed the plugs to the NGKs (2770 miles)... Also did the clutch restrictor mod. Clutch now seems to engage right away. Lets see how this helps me...

I also put all 4 tires to 40psi.. should help me out with high speed powerd..

May 16, 1999
Today i seperated the intake with aluminum siding.. and removed the right front side marker, put a hose through there and ran that hose up into the intake.. I drove around a bit.. and noticed i was getting a tad more power.. strange.. i could feel it in my seat.. after driving for a bit, i opened the hood.. the ENGINE side was HOT.. and steamy.. while the intake side was cool.. BUT, the k&N was COLD to the touch!! wow.. hope this helps in the long run:)

Also noticed my back bumper is getting BLACK.. running too rich? gonna try a MAF mod soon...

May 17, 1999 - Gapped plugs, removed Lower HC
Couple of things. I regaped my plugs to .032 and the car now idles at an even 700 (before, at .028, it would idle at 800 and go up to 1000 when the fans came on..)

I also begun removing the Lower HONEYCOMB from the Maf. Car still idles ok. No noticeable O2 changes or EGTs..(.94v 3rd gear, WOT and 1500EGTs) maybe i'll try a side honeycomb.

ALSO, looks like my Autometer boost gauge was off. When i shut the car off, i read 5hgs.. BAD. I bent the inside bar a bit, so now i read 0hgs when stoped. Before, when i had 17psi boost, i actually had 21psi.. WOW.. well, now i poped it back to 16.. looks like it still pulls.. as well as when it was at 21.. so i should be ok.

Next morning, it didnt rain.. pretty hot. While driving down the highway, my EGTs hit 1600 in 4th gear WOT.. hmmm

May 18, 1999 - Installed JBC, Reset ECU, Broke Tranny
Got the JBC today.. at first, the car felt slower. i got no more boost spikes!! stayed FLAT at 16psi.. great..

So, i decided to RESET the ECU.. THEN, i got TONS of power!! wow.. it felt VERY fast...

later that night, while driving, i lost 3rd/4th gear :( i think a synchro went bad or something. only 3000 miles. well, spent 3 hours putting it back to stock.. Taking it to SATAN to see if they can fix it. wish me luck

May 24, 1999 - Tranny broken
Called up Mitsubishi, looks like my 3rd/4th SLEEVE is gone. Said it would be fixed under warranty. So thats a good sign. I think even with my current mods, there is NO WAY that this tranny could have gone bad so quickly...

July 11, 1999 - Got car back (new tranny)
Lets see. Got the car back, new transmission ! Cut my shifter 1 1/2 inches.. feels MUCH better and neater. Also installed a Intercooler Sprayer. Keeps my intercooler COLD by the touch!

Car seems to be going slower and slower, especially in this hot weather. Buying a 16G and DP and high flow cat real soon!

August 20, 1999 - Installed 16g, 2.5" Downpipe, 2.5" HighFlowCat
Ok. Poped in the 16G. (4800 miles.. changed oil (no filter) and radiator fluid) DAMN does this thing move! I now get full 16psi till redline and beyond, and the car just keeps pulling!! wow. Only problem is i get boost creep. 4000rpm in 4th gear, WOT, i hit 16psi (what my JBC is set at). at 7000rpm, i'm already at 19psi. I have the turbo ported, O2 housing ported a bit. Maybe i should put my stock cat back on (oh, i also installed a 2.5" downpipe and 2.5" high flow cat),

August 26, 1999 - Ported O2 housing
Well, so far so good. I took out the O2 housing and ported it some more (opened up the bottom side of the wastegate side a bit more) and guess what, NO MORE BOOST CREEP! I'm running 18 1/2 PSI right now, and my O2s for some reason hit .92 to .96 at any gear WOT. Looks like my car is running VERY rich. Maybe some ways to lean it out will give me more power. Water injection? Lets see what i can do. Car pulls like a Bat out of hell.

September 6, 1999 - Tuning...
A couple of things. First of all, my boost creep Wasnt solved. Because i run at 18psi, it just slightly creeps to 19psi, maybe 20. So its less noticeable. Well, i'll have to live with it.

Second, I was monitoring the after-cat O2 sensor all this time. Go figure! It was starting to read .04v at idle all the time (compared to .70 or .20 from the beginning of this page). Maybe its something normal? Because the before-cat O2 sensor fluctuates like a mad man.

Third, this car seems to have power increases at night. It gets cold at night, and the car runs extremely well. So in the past, i might have mistaken my 'power' increases because i would finish the mod in the day and do testing at night. What a dork ...

Fourth, I need an AFC. My O2's run .96 or .98 sometimes (Egts may hit 1600 at 4th gear, WOT sometimes). I reset the ecu, with no aparent luck (except my car now idles lower than 750 sometimes, like it doesnt even do the 'high rpm warm up')

And Fifth, I redid the intercooler sprayer. It now doesnt leak. Put a T in the rear with a one way valve pointing upward. This allows air in and breaks the syphon. Also, i'm going to have water spray on the radiator/oil cooler assemblies. A few buttons/leds will be put in the center console. And I ordered water injection for my car. I'll keep you posted.

Oh, and one other thing, my FUSE for the fuel pump rewire has a habbit of blowing here and there (30amp). hmm

More things, my autometer went off scale again. I had to 're-bend' the inside tab. I now read 16~17hgs at idle and 18psi boost.
My previous BOV tube (pvc piping) was a nono. It melted, and cause a leaking intake after the MAF (so car was running leaner than usual). I just made a metal tube. Car has hit 6000miles. Plus, my right front tire is 'stuck'. Nuts wont come off... Plugs are back to .028.

September 11, 1999 - Raised boost to 20psi, Installed H20Injection, Replaced Lower HC.
Well, I've now raised the boost to 20psi. The weather got colder (60 degrees??), and I installed water injection and put my Lower Honey comb back in. First impressions, with the lower HC back in and running 20psi, the car HAULS ASS like crazy! It could be with the help of this cold air. Now, the water injection comes on at 8psi. Took me a while to get it all working. But, it seems to help keep egts down. thats about it. i can run 20psi, WOT, 4th, maintain a .92O2 or higher, and the egts hover around 1500.. but then again, the weather all of a sudden turned cooler. So what i have done might have not had any influence.

I'm getting suggestions that i need a new Fuel Pump/Injectors. Maybe some 550's? A Supra pump. hmm

Oh, I also datalogged my car. At 20psi, h2o injection, my timing STILL dove to 9 degrees at WOT, and rose to 17, just like it did at 14psi. But i'm going to try the test again. @14psi.. just to verify.

September 13, 1999 - Installed AFC
Installed the AFC today. Have it set at -8, -2, -12, -10, -6. After installing it, and doing some tuning, i decided to lean out the whole rpm band just for fun. (of course, i kept my eyes out for my EGTs and O2s). All I can say is that my butt-o-meter felt more punch in the hot summer sun! So, this thing did give me some more power, but i still have to do more tuning. Also going to do some datalogging.

Car has 6600 miles.

September 16, 1999 - Installed 4 Gallon water tank in the rear, tuning
Installed 4 gallon tank to hold the water. Tuned the AFC some more, put the 800 and 2400 to 0.

September 22, 1999 - Tuning
Trying to get this AFC tuned right. Takes alot of screwing around. Turned my PSI back to 14/15 (but still creeps to 18/19) and turned my AFC ALL lean. Seems to pull just as hard, but EGTs rise pretty quick. Getting cold out here.. 57degF! Running 800/2400 2% rich, 4000 -16%, 5200 -14% and 7200 -10%. seems to have GOOD mid range torque now. Car is reaching 6800 miles.

Also, my IC sprayer seems to like 'freeze' the IC now with this weather! But the stock IC is still just too small. The air from the turbo is basically pushing against the small pressure (pressure drop). A larger FMIC would fix this, but costs $600~$700. Hmmm..d

Also, the O2's seem to hover roune .89v now at WOT.

I also resottered my AFmeter better. I noticed i was taping off the REAR o2 sensor ALL THIS TIME! All readings from before are not worth anything. They were actually LEANER than the actual readings...

One more thing. My boost lag seems to be 'more' now. Maybe all the vacuum routings to the H2O injection are cause a longer air travel? It seems to fully kick in round 3500rpm.

September 23, 1999 - Tuning
Tapped my JBC off the Jpipe nipple. This somehow reduced my BOOST creep. from 14psi till 17 instead of 19.. cool. My boost seems to be coming on now at 4000.. Even tried eliminating all sources of extra vacuum line (h20 injection, etc) to make the least amount of connections. No help.

September 26, 1999 - VOLVO FMIC, Tuning
Installed a 88 Volvo 740Turbo Intercooler, with 2.5" inlets/outlets. Damn pipes kept poping off when i'de hit 20psi! Regardless, i got 1psi more boost, so this means the IC gave me 1 psi less pressure drop over the stock unit. Plus, painted it chrome:)
Also been tuning the AFC a bit more. Last 3 rpms are VERY leaned out.

I also re-did the intercooler sprayers. Now 2 sprayers that spray on the IC.

September 27, 1999 - Tuning
Well, my car felt a bit mushy tonight. I tried putting the 7200rpm knob of the afc to +30% because my power would drop past 5600rpm. BUT, i did notice, since I switched my boost controller to before the IC, (even with the stock IC) my boost would start to go DOWN to 18psi past 5200rpm. This might be a reason...

Its about 66degrees. pretty hot.. and 100% humid tonight. This humidity might be the 'culprit" because my car felt QUICK this morning.. hmm

September 28, 1999 - Tuning, Crushed BOV
Ok. I decided to crush my BOV. So now it only opens at about 25hgs. When the car was idling, you could feel air leaking out of the BOV. With this done, i get QUICKER spool up! Works real great. And the SWOOSH sound changed. Its now a trickle sound like Rally Championship game for the PC.

Also, this didnt help me hold boost till 7krpm. I was still droping to 18psi. Could this be my FMIC causing a 2psi pressure drop?? Well, same thing happened with my stock unit. Regardless, I put my JBC Back to the BOV section, and now my boost jumped to 20.5 psi UNTIL redline. My turbo might be pushing more boost this time = hotter air, but i might not be in that bad of shape.

Well, that Flutter sound turned out to be Compressor Surge. My BOV wasnt opening at all!! damn. Well, im' getting a new one crushed right from a pal. Then we should be back in business.

I am also running around with a Check Engine light for the Fuel Trim values. This must have to do with my AFC being so lean in the first 2 rpm levels. Have to fix that.

Also have to experiment taking out lower/side HCs. And check for any leaks in the Intake regions.

October 4, 1999 - HCs Removed, Tuning, Clutch failing
Well, removed the HCs. Didnt see much of a difference.

Also, while driving in 5th gear today, my clutch started to slip severely. Looks like i'll need an ACT real soon. Damn.

I'm also experimenting with different size FMIC pipes... see if i get less lag, etc..

October 5, 1999 - Tuning
Changed my lower turbo-to-FMIC pipes to 2" using some exhaust 90deg bend and rubber hosing. I get slightly quicker spool up. My spool seems to be decreasing to 3500 easily at 20psi. But what i really noticed is the lower pipe got HOT to the touch, compared to the 2.5" pipe. I wonder if this means the air is getting to the fmic quicker... Also, the rubber hosing is a NONO.. at 20psi, it must be flexing to the point where my boost was not 'instant'.. it felt sluggish...

October 11, 1999- Tuning
Well, something's not right here... driving in like 3rd/4th gear, lowrpm.. i can hold 10psi, with 25% throttle. BUT, the car doesnt go anywhere.. clutch?? nope.. my 4000rpm knob on the afc was too lean (-20).. i just zeroed out the whole thing to start from scratch.. and it runs 'solid' now... so its back to 'testing'

October 15, 1999 - Testpipe installed, Tuning
Ok. I found a 'sweep' spot on my car. 17 1/2 PSI and my afc set to +6, -6, -12, -10, -6. Less psi seems to make the car run just the same. and its safer.

I installed a 2.5 Testpipe. First, its not throaty anymore.. it has a more RAPPY sound to it. And it is MUCH louder. Power SEEMS to be more, but i dont know, because i get excessive boost creep!! My boost comes on more, but i noticed 'midrange' power diminuished a bit. Now, my boost creeped from 17 1/2 to 24/25psi!! only past 5000rpm does it start creeping. Looks like i'll have to find other ways around this now.

October 16, 1999 - Tuning
Ok. I thought. I put my JBC on the JPIPE (before the FMIC). I was running '18psi' before. Now, it would run 16psi (means i'm getting a 2psi pressure drop over the fmic). Ok. Well, as i accelerated, my boost only rose to 20~21psi. (max 3rd gear pull.. still need more testing to verify this). this means at 7000rpm, i am seeing round 5psi pressure drop over the whole system! This FMIC might not be all that its cracked up to be. BUT, it has a high cooling efficiency rate, so it might be 'compensating'.

I'm ordering a 34mm flapper/making one and gonna port out the WG hole to control this creep.

Also, broke to wheel studs. Getting them installed next week.

And clutch should be in the 19th or so.

Also getting a Conquest FMIC with 2" in/outs for about 100. To see if it gives me better performance.

October 18, 1999 - Installed 34mm WG Flapper, Tuning
Damn, took me 3 hours to port the WG hole. I replaced it with a 34mm valve I ground from an old exhaust valve. As for the results? With my JBC before the FMic (using its 2+ psi drop) i got rock solid 16psi in 1st/2nd gear, and 3rd 4tn and 5th it would start climbing aroun 5500rpm from 16psi to a MAX seen today of 20psi at 7000rpm. My culprit now seems the O2 Housing, which i didnt do a good job of porting. But, for now, i think i'll stick with this :)

Today's weather was 54deg (night) and 45%humid and my car felt SUPER fast.. my guts kept getting more and more compressed as rpm's rose!! what a feeling! Oh, i raced some hooked up VR4. We got to 120mph, my egts hit 1600+ (i couldnt really tell.... concentrating on the road). After the run (which i pulled on him easily :), i stopped the car, opened the hood, and my turbo/o2housing were GLOWING SO RED/ORANGE, that it lit up the whole engine bay... wow..

October 19, 1999 - Tuning
I took out the wastegate and 'straightened' out the arm to see if i can get more 'play' in the WG valve. This gave me 1 psi less boost creep (it worked). Now the flapper opens up more. I turned the boost to 18psi, and hit 1580 egts running top of 3rd gear. They were LOWER when i turned on H2O injection.

Still screwing around with the AFC... And my clutch seems to be holding good for now.. odd

October 25, 1999 - Tuning Graph 1 --> Graph 2 -->
Ok. Now, my ecu is retarding my timing at 6000rpm. Its a known fact, i can feel it, and this graph (GRAPH 1) shows it...
Basically, my ecu pulls timing because of the following

a) Air is too hot --> Detonation (Explosion happens before spark is issued)
b) Runs too lean (not enough fuel supplied) --> Detonation
c) 100% Injector duty cycle --> Ecu sees the injectors are on 100% of the time meaning they cant handle the fuel
d) My MaF is being overrun --> Ecu sees too much air entering the maf, so it downgrades timing
e) Pre-designed feature to save engine from blowing up

a) Cant be. My FMIC is doing a really nice job. even my Throttle body felt cold!! UNLESS its high pressure drop above 5k rpm is causeing the turbo to push extra hard (therefore more hot air) which is causing detonation.. but this doesnt seem likely
b) I dont know about this one. My o2s like to hover at .92 at high rpms. BUT, I noticed since my 4000rpm afc knob is at -15%, even though i get good low end torque, once i hit 4th/5th gear, and i go WOT around 4000rpm, my O2's hit .83 or so. This right there means that My FUEL PUMP isnt providing enough fuel.. Since the engine is running very hard at 4th/5th gear, it needs more fuel at 4000rpm than in 2nd/3rd gear, or at least this sounds logical...
c) This could be the reason my Timimng always drops at 6000rpm ONLY in 3rd/4th gear (but slighly in 2nd gear). Injectors are working overtime, the ECU see's this, and retards the timimng (it does this because if the injectors are working max, then 9 times out of 10 your engine will start to lean out, so its pre-programmed to protect the engine this way). BUT, its highly unlikely my Stock fuel pump can outflow my stock injectors...
d) This could be a reason. Even though i've removed lower and side honeycomb. I dont know for sure how to further remedy this problem, if it is a culprite.
e) This one is a mystery...

I also notcied if i drive in 4th/5th gear, at round 4000rpm, i'm MUCH better moving my AFC knob to 0 instead of -15%. My o2s jump from .83 to .89 this way, and the car seems to pull a tad better... Maybe a NEW style AFC is what i need here.. hmm

As for my clutch slipping, i got factualy proof. Just look at the GRAPH 2. Notice how my RPMS are rising higher than my MPH?? BAMN!

And, my front rotors are VERY VERY warped. Braking hard my steering wheel jiggles like crazy.

And i've hit 9000miles (10/26)

October 29, 1999 - New Clutch
INstalled my new CFDF 2500lb Bbearing clutch. 10 hour job! well, i'm in the process of burning it in.. for about 500 miles. Also got the fuel pump in. My car seems to shudder now, but thats probably due to a brand new clutch. Its getting better by the hour.

November 1, 1999 - Redid clutch, Fuel light came on, burning in clutch
I took tranny back out, put 6 bolts in torqued to spec, and got everything up and running in 4 hours. Clutch now feels better, no more shudder.

Also, 1/4 tank of gas left, my low fuel light came on for 2 secs.. wierd

November 6, 1999 - Tuning, New lowerFMIC pipes
Put on new lower FMIC pipes that go from 2.5 to 2 1/4 real quick. No more flex pipe. This gave me even less boost lag, and the power seems to be rock solid now, especially with the New Clutch. I also cleaned out my UIC pipe with gasoline. was full of oil inside.

Driving around in 5th gear, car seems to be having a bit more power. Not too sure yet.

Fuel gauge seemed to have fixed itself by me filling the tank up to full.

Car also seems to be running very rich now with the fuel pump.

** My car feels VERY powerfull. i think replacing those flex pipes did the trick :) **

November 12, 1999 - Tuning
My car is feeling VERY low powered. Of course, I turned down the boost to 15psi. But, my ECU still retards timing on top end no matter HOW lean/rich I make the AFC. Something is up, so I ordered an RRE FMIC. My charge air might still be to hot, even though its 30degF outside!

November 20, 1999 - Tuning
My car felt FAST today. Poped it to 18-20psi, Aft on +2, -2, -12, -4, +4, and the weather? Patchy fog, just rained... I think my car LIKES this type of weather from any other. 59degF, cloudy, 87% humidity! (I thought my car hated humidity), dewpoint 55degrees. It was not that cold.. rather mild. Hmm..

November 29, 1999 - RRE Fmic installed, Tuning
Well, finally put a REAL fmic on. After driving around, noticed no big gains over my volvo fmic. Also i noticed a vacuum cap was ripped letting out boost. Could have caused some reall bad boost leak. Not too sure. Went for a test drive, afc is on all 0's. Car seems to pull fine with afc 0'ed out. So i think i now have some more room to play with in leaning out the car.

November 30, 1999 - Tuning, Put HC's back in
Drove around today in the daytime. I put my HC's back in. Damn, i now run .99 ~ 1.01 O2 Voltages! wow. well, i ended up leaning the AFC now a bit. Still have to tune the thing with datalogger tonight.

Datalogging:

30degF, 55%humidity, clear sky

Now, i put the lower/side HCs back in. Also, AFC is at all 0's. Boost is 19~20psi. See this datalog? NO TIMING PULL back. I dont know if i can attribute this to the RRE fmic or the very cold weather... And the car pulled like 'normal'. Also, notice that the TIMING flattens out at 6000rpm in every gear?.. strange.
Also, my timing ranges here from 8 to 16 on occasion. I should be seing 20+ at the top. Hmmmm.... One more thing, i am getting .98~.99 O2 voltages as well, so this car is running RICH RICH RICH.

1st,2nd,3rd 4th

Now, here is where it gets interesting. I then tried leaning out the AFC. -14, -6, -10, -6, 0. As i did the pulls again, i noticed an incredible SURGE of power in 2nd gear.. 3rd and 4th felt a little livelier. But, as always, timing retared a bit on top of 4th gear around 5500rpm or so. And it only toped at 14deg. This is also at 19~20psi. I'm going to try lowering the psi a GOOD bit for a test.

Also, we cant forget. Until april, i'm running 93 Oxygenated fuel. I'm also thinking of getting 2 1/4 mandrel bent fmic pipes or such to clean up all the clutter i have under the car. Also, a 1g throttle body with a 60mm (comjpared to 2g 52mm) opening will be installed soon.

Here is a graph of my MAF, O2 and RPM readings as well. I cant make out what to use the maf reading for. Maybe you can tell me? :)

December 3, 1999 - Tuning
Guess what. Driving to school today, I noticed that my o2s were running .88~.92 on 3rd/4th gears. So, I did a natural thing and put my AFC to all 0's. Car still ran .88-,.92 o2s. So, i tried going +10 in the 4k knob. And in 4th gear, i WOT it. Still at .90 o2s, and I hit FUEL CUT. a few times! Plus, the weather is like 49degF and 30%humidity out here. Not that cold. After the fuel cuts, my car felt very sluggish. Looks like i need 550s since i cant richen up my car anymore. This started happening after my New RRE FMic and puting my lower/side HCs back in.

Later that day, same temp, i ran my car -18, -4, -10, -6, -6 and it HAULLED A$$! Very strange I think. We cant forget, this is all on 18~20psi on 93 octane oxygenated fuel. We'll see what happens when i put 550s in this baby.

December 4, 1999 - 550s Installed
Woohoo. Put on 550s?! And the car just haulled ass all day long. It felt much more solid and tight. Also, right when i put them in, i got .98o2s at WOT instead of my usual .90 with the 450s. I also have the AFC tuned -18, -6, -25, -25, -25 but still needs some more fine tuning.

I also have an exhast leak somewhere that i have to look into. Seems to be from the downpipe.

Also going to install a 2.5" pipe between the MAS flex section and the turbo intake.

Datalogs...

December 5, 1999 - Exhaust Leak found, EGT probe broke
Well, i found this exhaust leak that was there since day one. Supposibly, when i took out the turbo exhaust housing to install 34mm flapper, i never re-tightened the housing clamp that much. It was leaking exhaust from that area. I'm assuming this was hurting my top end performance as well. I ended up tightening that clamp a good amount and notice the car now pulls even MORE at teh top end rpms / high gears. This car is looking to become VERY quick now. I hope I run good numbers at the track.

December 6, 1999 - Tuning
Well. Looks like i have some theory here to explain something. Because i'm running my afc now at -25 in some rpm bands, the ECU theortically thinks that its seeing LESS air coming into the engine. The ECU has a limit where if it sees a % of air it will retard the timing (which probablly was happening at high rpm, since too much runs throught the MAF sensor). But, sinse i can run RICH, 22% richer, with the afc very very lean (but still .90 o2s) then the ecu has less of a tendancy to pull timing = more power! Still have to datalog and watch egts to see how well this works out.

December 8, 1999 - Magnecor Spark Wires, new EGT probe, tuning
Got a new egt probe (old one broke). And put on Magnecor 8.5mm Wires

Car felt a bit sluggish, even thought my afc is pretty lean. Tried richening it back up (egts were rising like crazy) but i got FUEL CUT in this 35deg weather (70%humidity).

December 9, 1999 - Tuning
I had taken my lower/side HC back out. Car seemed to regain it power. But idle was very bad. So, i reset the ECU, and put back the LOWER hc. Went for some testing. I did a run from 2nd to 4th around 110mph. My egts hit 1650 (afc was very leaned out). I turned on the h2o injection, did the same run, and only hit 1600egts. It was also about 41degF (87%humidty). I was running 19psi, .90o2s (4th gear it stooped down to .85 sometimes). Fuel trim code was also gone.

The car felt fast. Here is a timing graph.

<- 2nd,3rd,4th
If you notice here, I was getting from 11deg to 20deg! timing. Thats good. This was a 2nd, 3rd and 4th pull. Notice no timing pull back :)
I was also reading 50degF intake temps at WOT.

<-- 1st thru 4th pull
Here was the same pull with WATER INJECTION on and the last 2 afc knobs from 16, 14 to 14, 12 (made it a tad richer on the top end), whilst 4k knob was at 18, and 2k knob was at 10. Notice I hit 23deg timing this time! :) Thats a good sign. Also was running 93 octane, 19psi.

This signifies my car is tuned perfectly, because going lean 1 clikc on the 4k and 5k rpms resulted in timing being pulled back, as you see here in 4th gear: (the little hatch cross mark is where 4th gear starts to retard...)

wondering if a 3" turbo back would help. hmm...

December 26, 1999 - Tuning, some modifications
It has been getting colder, 15degF sometimes. I've now switched to all 2 1/4 mandrel FMIC piping and routed the UIC pipe over the tranny. Saved about 2 feet of extra FMIC piping! And get full 20psi at 3000rpm or even less! Its been good/bad everyother day. Colder weather makes my car run so lean that its tough to tune correctly with the afc. Water injection has also not been used.

I'm getting a better cold air induction made. Waiting for a 1g Throttle body, and going to a mandrel 2.5" downpipe and maybe a 3" cat back soon.

January 3rd, 2000 - Tuning, MAF-Turbo hose, downpipe enlarged
Its been a while. But, i've done a few extra things. First, the car is running great. I've been running the AFC on the richer side all along and keep from .86 to .89 o2s all the way.

As for modifications, i've replaced the 2.5" pressbend on my downpipe with a mandrel section. Not only did the sound go from a RATTTYY to a VROOOMMY sound, but top end has been discovered. Car feels very strong in 4th and 5th gear now!! Even at 17-18psi!

Also installed a 2.4" Dave Brode Maf-Turbo hose. This helped with throttle response as well, but not to sure if it did anything. The stock intake hose was very restrictive as is. Also, I had to sand off the inner area of the big maf pipe section where the bov pipe enters. This area was rough and was causing the air to shoot back INTO the maf causing bucking.
The 1g TB never arrived, so i'm putting that off. I've also started thinking about porting the exhaust manifold.

Jaunary 8th, 2000 - Tuning, more pipe work
Guess what. I did the rest of the downpipe and put a straight section instead of the two press bends. WHAT a difference in top end! It now pulls more in 6k-7k rpm! Looks like press bent is no good for top end... or at least it wasnt letting my engine breathe, even though it was 2.5"...

January 17th, 2000 - Tuning, NEW S-afc
Well, driving around 75mph for 2 hours, i noticed my EGTs were hitting 1600!! Ouch. I needed the NEW S-afc which lets me run RICH at part throttle, and LEAN at WOT.

Also, My boost is crazy.. Up and down with all this weather change. I need an Electronic Boost Controller. ProfecB :) Coming soon.

Also, I'm getting a nice deal on a 20g. Shh. Dont tell anyone. Its a secret :)

March 3rd, 2000 - Boost leaks found, Rewelded Fmic Pipes, 20g, ProfecB install
Got a 20g installed. This turbo is a tdo5h exhaust wheel/ tdo5center housing/ tdo6(20g) compressor wheel/housing. Installation was tricky, had to modify some things to get the wastegate cannistor on (welding).

Also welded my own 3" straight pipe exhaust. My complete exhaust system consists of 2.5" downpipe to a 3" striaght pipe to 2.5" dynomax muffler.

I've been screweing around with the 1g BOV and crushing / uncrushing. Did a Pressure test on my intake side (capped the turbo inlet and the throttle body oultet). As I pumped air into the system, i found 3 leaks.

1) Turbo boost pressure source nipple
2) lower fmic pipe weld
3) crushed bov was leaking at 5psi

Also re-welded my fmic pipes. There was some ugly weld job I did previously :0. They are still 2 1/4 " before/after fmic.

Installed a Greddy ProfecB boost controller. Pretty simple to do. Now I can have more precise control over my boost from inside the cockpit!

I also am running with ALL my honeycombs back in. The car seems to like it better :)

Car still needs some tweaking. Coming next is an o2 eliminator and ported manifold so this 20g can flow with ease. Also have an MSD DIS2 to install.

March 6th, 2000 - Install TRE Ported Manifold
As i was installing this baby, I noticed BLACK soot all over the manifold area. Turns out i had an exhaust leak at the turbo/manifold gasket area all along AS WELL. This would definately hurt spool up and top end. Fixed this. Car seems to pull better top end now.

November 17th, 2000 - PMS Settings
After installing the PMS, i've gone through a various amount of settings. These are here for my personal preference

100] idle fuel
200] llfuel/mlfuel/hlfuel = lltiming/mltiming/hltiming
300] wotfuel = wottiming
600] 1psifuel/maxpsifuel = 1psitiming/maxpsitiming
800] cold fuel/warm fuel
900] boost?,maxpsi,fuelcut,ventlearn,nos,etc

11/15/00 - raced 300zx at night with these settings and car had good response and pull
100] +10
200] -10,-10,0,0/-10,-10,0,0/-10,-10,0,0 = 2,2,0,0/6,6,0,0/6,6,4,4
300] 4,-8,2,0 = 5,8,7,6
600] 0,0,0,0/-22,-18,-4,-4 = 3,4,4,2/3,5,4,4
800] 0/0
900] y,20,25,n,n,n,7500,00,2,20

11/16/00 - tried 104 gas, but this felt good on pump
100] +10
200] -10,-10,0,0/-10,-10,0,0/-10,-10,0,0 = 2,2,0,0/6,6,0,0/6,6,4,4
300] 4,-8,0,0 = 5,8,8,6
600] 0,0,0,0/-22,-22,-2,-2 = 5,5,4,3/5,5,4,3
800] -40/-0
900] y,20,25,n,n,n,7500,00,2,20

11/17/00 - went racing, but felt good coming home
100] +10
200] -10,-10,0,0/-10,-10,0,0/-10,-10,0,0 = 2,2,0,0/6,6,0,0/6,6,4,4
300] 0,0,0,0 = 6,8,7,7
600] 0,0,0,0/-26,-32,-10,-10 = 5,5,5,4/5,5,5,4
800] -30/-14
900] y,20,25,n,n,n,7500,00,2,5

11/19/00 - better throttle response, nice top end
100] +10
200] -10,-10,0,0/-10,-10,0,0/-10,-10,0,0 = 4,4,0,0/6,6,0,0/6,6,4,4
300] -16,-16,-16,-16 = 6,8,7,6
600] 0,0,0,0/-6,-14,10,14 = 5,5,5,4/5,5,5,4
800] -30/-10
900] y,20,25,n,n,n,7500,00,2,5

11/20/00 - 95 ecu installed, feels pretty good
100] +10
200] -2,-2,0,0/-2,-2,0,0/-2,-2,0,0 = 3,3,0,0/3,4,0,0/5,6,5,4
300] -16,-16,-16,-16 = 5,6,6,5
600] 0,0,0,0/0,-8,4,14 = 3,3,3,3/1,1,1,1
800] -10/-10
900] y,20,25,n,n,n,7500,00,2,20

1/12/01 - 660s installed, good bacis starting point
100] -10
200] -26,-26,-16,0/-26,-26,-16,0/-26,-26,-16,0 = 11,7,0,0/12,7,0,0/13,7,0,0
300] -26,-22,-22,-22 = 11,11,11,8
600] 0,0,0,0/0,-10,20,30 = 3,3,0,0/0,0,0,0
800] -80/-70
900] y,21,31,n,n,n,7600,00,1,50

1/15/01 - i've killed many cars on top end with these settings
100] -10
200] -26,-26,-16,0/-26,-26,-16,0/-26,-26,-16,0 = 11,7,0,0/12,7,0,0/13,7,0,0
300] -26,-22,-22,-22 = 11,10,10,8
600] 0,0,0,0/0,-4,18,30 = 3,3,0,0/0,0,0,0
800] -80/-70
900] y,21,31,n,n,n,7600,00,1,50

January 15th, 2001 - Upcoming
I'm planning on getting an 8cm turbine housing to offer some more top end. The car has been running quite well since its rebuild from the flood. Many different mods have been installed since then and I have been able to spin all 4 wheels in 2nd gear in the dry now. More tuning is coming forth as the racing season begins, and I hope to put in a dyno day soon.

January 17th, 2001 - More PMS Tuning
I was experimental today and tried raising the boost. Right now, my gauge reads almost 23psi, while the PMS map reads 21.5 or so. Any higher and I had timing problems. These settings worked tonight, about 36degF. I also get pretty good throttle response and boost response with these settings so far. No 8cm housing yet.

100] -18
200] -22,-24,-16,0/-22,-24,-16,0/-24,-24,-16,0 = 9,5,3,0/12,10,0,0/11,10,0,0
300] -26,-22,-22,-22 = 9,10,9,8
600] 0,0,0,0/2,-8,18,28 = 3,3,0,0/0,0,0,0
800] -70/-60
900] y,21,31,n,n,n,7600,00,2,5

January 17th, 2001 - More PMS Tuning, New Exhaust Tip, and 660s added a while back
I cut off the 2.5" dual tips i had and welded on a 4" truck tip, this seems to have helped spool and throttle response, but some more top end. Dunno. And some new settings for the pms:

I did some homework, 95 ecu seems to give timing as follows when no problems are detected:
4k 4.5k 5k 5.5k 6k 6.5k 7k 7.5k -- rpm
8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 19 20 21 -- degrees
adding pms timing to get the ideal 20deg to 25deg rise,
+7at2.2k, +10at4k, +9at6k, +4at7k

PROGRAM 1 - working on it
100] -16
200] -22,-24,-16,0/-22,-24,-16,0/-24,-24,-16,0 = 9,5,3,0/12,10,0,0/11,10,0,0
300] -38,-38,-34,-34 = 7,10,9,4
600] 0,0,0,0/8,6,32,44 = 4,4,0,0/0,0,0,0
800] -70/-60
900] y,21,31,n,n,n,7600,00,2,5
PROGRAM 2 - stable flat power
100] -18
200] -22,-24,-16,0/-22,-24,-16,0/-24,-24,-16,0 = 9,5,3,0/12,10,0,0/11,10,0,0
300] -34,-30,-34,-34 = 5,9,7,6
600] 0,0,0,0/2,2,30,46 = 6,6,0,0/4,4,6,5
800] -70/-60
900] y,21,31,n,n,n,7600,00,2,5
PROGRAM 3 - feels better than p.1 at top end
100] -16
200] -22,-24,-16,0/-22,-24,-16,0/-24,-24,-16,0 = 9,5,3,0/12,10,0,0/11,10,0,0
300] -38,-38,-34,-34 =7,10,9,4
600] 0,0,0,0/8,6,38,48 = 4,4,0,0/0,0,0,0
800] -70/-60
900] y,21,31,n,n,n,7600,00,2,5

February 17th, 2001 - More PMS Tuning, 99ecu back in
I took out lower/side honeycomb because i was gettting fuel cut even with the pms. In the end, this car started MOVING fast.. Also on BPR6Es again

It was warm and humid. 46degF, 44degFdew, 93%humid, hazy, 29.94bar

PROGRAM 1 - needed more timing for the 99ecu
100] -4
200] -16,-16,-16,0/-20,-20,-16,0/-20,-20,-16,0 = 14,14,3,0/13,12,0,0/13,12,0,0
300] -36,-36,-36,-36 = 16,17,16,14
600] 0,0,0,0/8,12,28,36 = 4,4,0,0/0,0,0,0
800] -100/-100
900] y,20,31,n,n,n,7600,00,2,5

February 27th, 2001 - More PMS Tuning, 95ecu back in
All honeycomb in . In the end, this car started MOVING fast.. Also on BPR6Es again

PROGRAM 3 - P e r f e c t settings for 99 and 95 ecu with my 20g
100] -14
200] -20,-20,-16,0/-22,-22,-16,0/-22,-22,-16,0 = 14,14,3,0/13,12,0,0/13,12,0,0
300] -36,-36,-36,-36 = 7,11,8,5
600] 0,0,0,0/8,10,26,38 = 4,4,0,0/0,0,0,0
800] -90/-40
900] y,20,31,n,n,n,7600,00,2,5

May 1st, 2001 - More PMS Tuning, 97ecu in, and more
Ended up installing a 97ecu permenantly. Also went for a 46mm Tial to complement my Green turbo (due to boost creep on the hks wastegate i had). Also blew my 3rd tranny. 4th Gear 1 tooth broke and ended up ruining the rest of the transmission. Doing a rebuild of 2nd tranny at the moment.

PROGRAM 1 - P e r f e c t settings for 97 ecu with my Green (using green-3 with fuel cut fix)
100] -14
200] 30,-22,-16,0/-22,-22,-16,0/-26,-26,-16,0 = 15,15,3,0/15,15,3,0/15,15,3,0
300] -26,-26,-26,-26 =5,8,6,2
600] 0,0,0,0/-2,-14,24,32 = 9,0,0,0/0,0,0,0
800] -50/-40
900] y,20,31,n,n,n,7600,00,20,20
Green, 97ecu, 21psi, 7es(.028), Raining, 3kg/cm fuel

Recently I have removed lower honeycomb and played with lowering the fuel pressure

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