 |
Start by pressing on any bearings from the inner race only
using a shop press. Lube up the shafts and anything you can so it
goes on easier. |
 |
This was a shop press I welded up myself, 12ton. MORE
than enough for this tranny. Behind that is a few trannies I am
working on :) |
 |
These are my 2 new shafts, with 2 new bearings pressed on
the sides that were not possible to remove bearings from the broken
shafts. |
 |
This is my parts layout for the intermediate shaft. Go
through the manual and you'll find its easy to do. |
 |
Start pressing on the parts. Make sure the synchros
dont bind up and mate with their positions while pressing. Also,
these hubs go in ONE way only, so no possibility of mistaking this.
The manual is incorrect saying the 'punch side' of the hub goes toward the
clutch housing. On 99 trannies, they go the other way. |
 |
Check for clearances (before pressing of course) in these
synchro locations. .0020 is the minimum space you want to see (a
worn synchro will show even less space). Also run your fingers
underneath the synchro teeth/rings. They should feel sharp. |
 |
Pressing on the final bearing on the intermediate
shaft. Do section by section, double checking the sliders go over
the synchros and lock the respective gear without any binding. |
 |
This is a check they require for the circlip clearence.
They recommend .0002 or so, which is basically nothing, so its not very
critical here. Just make sure you cant fit a .0020 slider between
the clip and the bearing race. |
 |
This gear is on the new input shaft they gave me. Even
new gears will have kinks like this so be aware. I sanded this down
a bit and hopefully it wont be a problem. |
 |
Input shaft assembly. Same ritual, press on the parts
carefully and slowly, and keep making sure nothing binds. (This
homemade shop press does wonders eh? :) |
 |
Another circlip check they require. Again, make sure
there is no space between this and the bearing. |
 |
Final bearing pressed on. I used 30mm impact socket,
works just as good. |